Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Paradox of the Villagers

Looking into the village of remote New Britain is like looking back in time. Many villages feed their relatively small numbers almost exclusively with food grown in the village. The dwellings are constructed with lumber hand-milled by the locals with machetes and waterproofed with large leaves and plastic sheeting donated by the nearby oil palm company. Life is simple – a typical day involves waking up with the sun, spending the morning tending your garden and spending the afternoon with your family. When the sun goes down, you retire to your home and go to bed.

Many settlements are reachable only by arduous walks that take you across bridgeless river crossings and up and over steep, slippery ridges. The terrain is often so strenuous that finding a flat piece of train more than 50 meters long seems practically impossible. The extreme difficulty of passage means that travel through the region is done only infrequently. Recently though, as is expected, westerners have begun to slowly find their way into these small villages. Sometimes they are missionaries trying to “save souls” and sometimes they are explorers looking for caves or rivers. No matter what the goal of the outsiders, their impact is huge.

When people, who have been essentially isolated forever from the influence of global modernization see westerners laden with high tech clothing, gear and food, their expectations change. When once they only needed food, shelter and family to survive, now they believe that they need what the westerners have. Because there is no monetary economy in these remote areas, the people hike out of their villages to the nearest road, take a bus to the nearest town, get a job and start earning money to buy the things that they now believe essential.

The problem though, is that while they like having the money, they don’t like living in the towns. They don’t like working on the oil palm plantations where they can’t have their own garden because they live in a company housing development. Instead of living off of what they produce, they now have to buy everything they need. Unsatisfied, they dream of a perfect solution.

The solution that they believe is the answer to their problems unfortunately involves the destruction of their land. Because tribes and not the government own most of the land in New Britain, motivation for the government to develop infrastructure in remote areas is low. If roads are to be built, there are only two options – build it yourself or sell the right to remove timber from your land to a Malaysian logging company. As soon as a tribe tells the logging company that they can take timber from their land, the company will build a road to the area so that the timber can be easily extracted. Now, the people of the village can still live in their homes while making an income AND have a road, complete with hitch-hikeable vehicles that will take them to town and (unfortunately this is true) allow them to blow all of the money on the local brew, South Pacific lager. And what is even more unfortunate is that a lack of education among the people of these remote villages allows the logging companies to pay about one kena a tree and make about 300 kena profit off of it. (1 kena = approx 3 USD).

It’s a tough situation, but a situation that the people of Tuke are in right now. Some of the young men of the village have begun making the one days (for them) walk to the road and then hitchhiking the two hours ride to the town of Navo to take jobs for Hargy Oil Palm. And just recently the tribe agreed to sell the logging rights to a large chunk of their land for an alarming 80,000 kena. And after the loggers are done, the plan is to call in the gold miners to further extract wealth from the land.

So if you were to be a fly on the wall in Tuke for the next 10 years, you would be able to watch it transform from a remote mountain village to a logged and mined village with a road directly to it.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007



While we have a rest day between jungle crazyness, I want to take a moment to extend a HUGE thanks to Northwest River Supplies. Without their support, we would absolutely not have had the necessary gear to handle some of the situations we have encountered. Our NRS throwbags, pin kits, drybags and outerwear have carried us through multi-day river trips through rainy, rugged terrain and multi-pitch ascents and descents with loaded kayaks. Every member of our team has burned and blistered hands from spending hours and hours every day hauling boats up and lowering them down using our Pro Kayak Rescue bags and without them none of our first descents would have been possible.

The gear is amazing and the customer support is unparalleled. Thanks NRS.

From Canoe and Kayak Mag's Website

Just found this on Canoe and Kayak Magazine's Website...


"Conservation Through Exploration”
Papua New Guinea Expedition

In late August 2007, Epicocity Project team members Howard "Trip" Jennings, Kyle Dickman, Brian Eustis, Matt Fields Johnson, Andy Maser, and Scott Feindell joined a team of scientists and cavers for a six week exploration of the Hargy Caldera in New Britain, Papua New Guinea. This National Geographic expedition will give voice to the recommendations of the United Nations Environmental Fund that this area be conserved.
The Hargy Caldera and its surrounding rivers shape a landscape fed by 200 inches of annual rainfall on terrain that drops from 7000 feet to the sea in less than 20 miles. The unusual combination of geology and climate has created some of the planet’s wildest whitewater, most biologically diverse forests, and most culturally isolated locales. The expedition will involve three whitewater first descents (reached by foot and helicopter), exploration of the Southern Hemisphere’s largest cave system, collection of scientific data, and collaboration with local tribes. “It’s a daunting adventure and a story that will be captured on film, in magazine articles and photographs,” says Kyle Dickman, Epicocity Project Producer.
About the Epicocity Project Team:
Howard “Trip” Jennings, the owner and founder of the Epicocity Project, has led whitewater first descents and expeditions in 6 countries throughout North, Central and South America. His films have been accepted into Banff Film Festival’s World Tour, Telluride Film Festival and have gained critical acclaim in the kayaking world. The Conservation through Exploration project rolls together Trip’s passions for the environment, kayaking and exploration. The team he is collaborating with is the most qualified group he has worked with to date.
Kyle Dickman is a producer with the Epicocity Project and a freelance writer. Kyle brings with him extensive travel experience from exploratory trips in Central America, Europe and New Zealand, and wilderness skills honed by seven years whitewater kayaking and five years fighting first.
Brian Eustis recently returned from paddling the length of the Mekong River. Eustis’s film about this adventure, “The Mother of Waters”, was awarded Telluride’s Indomitable Spirit award and finished second in Banff Mountain Film Festivals People’s Choice award. He has logged first descents in China, led kayaking expeditions in Costa Rica and spends his weekends paddling his favorite backyard run, Washington’s Little White Salmon. Brian’s experience with foreign cultures and his skills on the water and with a camera make him an invaluable part of this expedition.
Andy Maser just finished production on a full-length documentary that analyzed Columbian culture. Andy has logged numerous first descents from Costa Rica to Argentina and recently placed second at the Collegiate Nationals for kayaking. This will be his fourth international kayaking expedition. He is a recent graduate from the University of Oregon’s School of Journalism and Communications.
Matt Fields Johnson is joining the expedition as a photographer, a kayaker, and an expert in ropes and rescue. Matt is studying photography in Bowling Green State University. He has been on photography assignments in Antarctica, Ecuador and Argentina. When Matt’s not shooting photos he’s climbing hard traditional routes all over the world, or paddling his backyard run on the Great Falls of the Potomac River.
Scott Feindel has been paddling since he was 8 years old. He began developing his skills, and still is, on rivers all across North America, South America, Norway and New Zealand. Scott's experience on the water and his ability to maintain a positive attitude in high stress situations make Scott an integral part of this expedition.

Find out more about the Conservation through Exploration- Papua New Guinea Expedition and the Epicocity Project at www.epicocity.com

Looking forward to life after PGN

We still have a bit over two weeks left to destroy ourselves in PGN, but I already have a great gig lined up for when I get back.

Portland based eNRG Kayaking is organizing a 15 stop Mid Atlantic/Southeast college tour in conjunction with the American Canoe Association. We are going to show up at each stop, conduct a film festival and offer a free kayak class. Some will be in university pools and some (as in the case of Frostburg State and UNC Charlotte) will be in whitewater parks. We will also be attending whitewater symposiums, an industry trade show and a legendary kayak race and a swiftwater rescue course. All events will be free and all will be a great time.

Dave Hoffman and I will be conducting the tour and we will be joined mid way by Sam Drevo, fresh from Nepal. As soon as the schedule is finalized I will post it here.

The mission was a complete success, BUT...

Because we have some things worked out with National Geographic, I'm not allowed to publish anything before they have a chance to refuse it first. It's called a Right of First Refusal and we all signed it so...

I did type up a description though (it's pretty wild) and am emailing it to people who are interested. If you are, shoot me an email at amaser@mac.com and I'll send it to you. Basically though, we explored a cave, paddled a bunch of crazy whitewater and ended up at the ocean. Now we're all totally haggered and resting for a couple of days before the next mission. Our whitewater adventures are not nearly over and we have some cool stuff in our sights.


Sorry for promising an update and not coming through, but hopefully we'll have a sweet article in National Geo Adventurer complete with the amazing photos that we have and all will be ok!


Cheers for now.

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Preping for a mission

Tomorrow, the six-person kayak team is combining forces with a 3-person caving team to execute the mission of our dreams. We are leaving at 8:00 am to drive to the end of the road and then hike in to the town of Tuke that Trip and I previously explored.

In Tuke, we will drop into a sinkhole and descend 1500ft in about 1.5 miles to the mouth of the cave. The mouth is amazing - a huge archway with a gorgeous crystal blue river flowing out. The plan is to drop into the cave at the top, work our way though paddling along the way and then paddle/swim out into daylight.

About 100 meters below the cave exit, the river flows over a series of cascades that are about 800 ft from top to bottom. Trip and I scouted the drops out last week and all of them go except for the last drop of about 50 ft or so.

After the waterfalls, the kayak team will paddle 3 days out to the ocean, where we will be picked up by a freighter and taken back to civilization. The caving team will hike out and we will meet up in time to celebrate the PNG independence holiday on Sept. 15th.

This should be a good one folks; an update and pictures to come when we make it out in 1-2 weeks. Cheers!